Saturday, December 15, 2012

Childhood Christmas Memories, Fried Bow-tie Cookies

For every person, there is something that their mother or grandmother made for the holidays that they still think about. It is "the" part of the meal that you look forward to. It is the taste, smell and texture of the holidays. In my family, we would all gather in the kitchen (after working all day at the bakery) and cook for the holiday. That one food that is the Christmas season, to me, are pinolata cookies. These are simple cookies that are deep fried and then drenched in honey. They are crispy and drenched in honey. Did I mentioned drenched in honey?

In the north of italy they make towers of balls called Stroffoli. In Sicily, from where my peeps hail, they make bow-ties, called crostoli in Naples. In my family, they are called pin-ya-lat. The base ingredients are so simple: flour, baking powder, eggs, salt. That is it.  Some families add wine, lemon zest, and vermouth. In my family, not such adornment was used. The most humble of ingredients made the base of my childhood memory.


Once I was diagnosed as a celiac, my mom and I tried to make these using rice flour. They were an utter, gritty failure. We tried again and again, all were total failures. We tried using fancy binding ingredients and bean flours. All awful  Eventually, we stopped trying and accepted that, perhaps, they could not be made GF. After a 15 year hiatus, I decided to try again. I've learned so much about gluten free cooking. I now know that you can't simply replace flour with rice flour. Nope, it takes some blending and chemistry. Also, I also know that you must, must use superfine flours in baking.


Here is my recent version. I think they are successful, but the true test will be from my mom. I stuck very close to my grandmother's ingredients, but changed the flour to GF and added just a tiny bit of sugar to the dough. The honey that will be served over these will be sweet enough, but I wanted to slightly mask the rice taste.


Pinolata Cookies

flours (follow Glutenfree Girl and the Chef's guidance on making 40/60 flour to starch, all purpose guidance)
3/4 c superfine brown rice flour (this MUST be superfine)
1/2 c tapioca starch (or flour, same thing)
3/4 c sweet rice flour 

other
2 tsp. baking powder
1/8 tsp. salt
2 tsp. sugar
3 eggs
1 T butter (melted, but not too hot)
peanut oil (for frying)

Instructions Sift together the brown rice flour, tapioca starch, sweet rice flour, baking powder and salt in a separate bowl. In food processor, place the 3 eggs. Mix for about 2 minutes. Drizzle in butter and sugar.  Add the dry stuff and mix some more. The dough will form a nice, smooth textured ball. Just at all looking like gluten-containing flour. This is correct. Do not thin the dough to make is look like normal GF dough.

Cut the ball into 8-10 equal pieces. Keep covered with a clean towel. Place a ball between two sheet of parchment paper. Roll to paper-thin consistency. Really, super thin. Take off upper sheet of parchment paper and then slice into 1 1/4 inch wide strips, no more than 4 in long. They don't have to be exact. 
Use a thin, sharp knife to release each strip. Use thumb and pointer finger to squish the center, gently, to form a bow-tie. Stack them up and keep them covered with a towel. 

In the meantime, heat peanut oil to 350 F. Once Add bow-ties to oil 3-4 at a time. Fry 15 to 30 seconds, or until golden or lightly browned; turn. Using tongs remove first stripes. Drain over skillet, then drain completely on paper towels. Continue with rest of the bow ties cooking 3-4 at a time. 

 Store in tightly covered container up to 3 weeks


Honey Topping (TBD) - I'm still waiting for details from my mom!

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